Flukinoff,
Okay now I am awake and on target. The composite thru me a curve.
You will see graphite blank/rod models called different names. It could be IM6 or IM7, Standard Modulus or high Modulus and anything else the manufacturers wish to call it.
You will read 30 million modulus, 33m, 43m, 54m and even higher.
So what does all this mean? Basically the higher the modulus number the lighter weight the blank is, the stronger the blank is for lifting power mid blank to the butt, the more sensitive the blank, the more expensive the blank/rod, the thinner the blank walls are and the greater the chance you will break the blank more easily. The very high modulus blanks are like a piece of glass, scratch/score it and it will break.
We are up to generation #7 in graphite material. I believe that is IM7. The basic graphite blanks/rods are the 30 or 33 million modulus. They are less expensive, they work and will take a beating. To a degree! High stick'em, use braid with too much drag, swing big fish and grab the tip of the rod as you swing fish and YOU WILL BREAK them. For these reasons as a rod builder I rarely build a graphite boat rod. I can not afford to have customers breaking rods.
The advent of the composite blank, fiberglas and graphite material combination I believe is a hugh improvement. You get the best of both worlds.
For tog I use either E glas fiberglas and/or composite rods. I like both. If you take care of your equipement go up to a 43 milliom modulus designed rod/blank. If you have lots of money go for the most expensive and likely the best.
I hope this helps to answer along with Unclemeat's post.
Capt Neil
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