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What have you got to say about the topic of: "Its That Time -The Winter Rerig". Here's how is started: "The Teasers on the tips of the bars are connected to a Craine Swivel as "
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| | #11 |
![]() Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Maryland
Posts: 431
| The Teasers on the tips of the bars are connected to a Craine Swivel as shown: ![]()
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| | #12 |
![]() Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Blue Planet
Posts: 963
| I never really thought about the hidden nicks, but I was always afraid of putting metal of any kind directly to the mono. I'll try the twist on a few of my green machines that need re rigging. I find it just as hard with the thimbles keeping them even while snugging up to crimp. That method looks easier, and I'm a big fan of K.I.S.S.(me being the last "S" on more than one occasion)
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| | #13 |
![]() Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Maryland
Posts: 431
| The Lines Now lets talk about the lines: We use three line spreader bars. They are light weight and have been just as productive as 4-line bars. Over time, we have never seen an advantage of using the bigger four line bars. In fact, the size, weight/drag difference of these bars are all the more reason to downsize. The proof is on the dock, and in the freezer and I am still eating tuna! - Line length: The teasers on the tips run between 36 and 40 inches. The center line is 52 inches long. All of the line is 130# Momoi Blue Diamond. We use this due to the breakng strength (~244#) vs diameter. It seems to be just right even for the smaller 4.5 to 6 inch squid. Next I'll post how we string our squid, and the spacings we use. Ken
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| | #14 |
![]() Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Exeter, Rhode Island
Posts: 3,318
| Awesome info so far! ![]()
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| | #15 |
| NBS Member Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Westbrook CT
Posts: 1,269
| Again, Awesome... Awesome info. Makes the winter a little shorter each time. One tip I picked up over the years is to burn the end of the leader into a little ball with a lighter before you crimp the crimp. Then you can pull it tight around the thimble, chafegear or Offshore loop. The ball will keep it from slipping out of the crimp. When you squeeze it there should be no play what so ever in the end. Some guys I have shown that to like it some not so much. ![]()
__________________ And the sea will grant each man new hope..............Christopher Columbus ![]() 2003 Parker 2530 "DORYMATE".......click the pic 1973 Seacraft 20SF 1970 Glastron V153 70hp Evinrude**FOR SALE** |
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| | #16 |
![]() Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Maryland
Posts: 431
| Thats a great Tip Bryan. Anything you can do to snug up that crimp will help.
__________________ ![]() Don't miss out on our VIP Specials, click to join We'll have some exclusive VIP specials starting real soon! Last edited by Reel Draggin' Tackle; 01-05-2007 at 09:21 PM. |
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| | #17 |
![]() Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Maryland
Posts: 431
| Rigging Your Lines Starting with the lines on the tips. We start with 36 inches of Momoi Blue Diamond 130# mono. We use coast lock snaps crimped to the ends. Nothing fancy. The snaps are at least 80#, sometimes 130#, thin wire snaps. Each teaser line has two 7.5 inch squid, or if we are rigging with anything smaller, we put three per line. You just do not need any more. It might look cool to build a bigger bar with more stuff, but the bottom line is that you would be better off with two smaller bars run close together than one big bar. - The big question the becomes, "what spacing do I use?". This is simple, TWO (2) inches between squid, always, no matter what size. You want these guys close, not far apart (a common mistake in our opinion). Each squid has a float inside of it. There are all kinds of options none are wrong and they all have good/bad points. Just get a float in each squid. We use foam because it fills up the squid so it keeps its shape under any condition; and when they get stepped on, they do not crush! We use flat rigging beads in front of a crimp to keep everything in place. Here are a few pictures: ![]() ![]() The beads in the noise are not required. As single flat bead in front of the crimp is all that is really needed. ![]() Everything you need to rebuild a spreader bar, just add the squid of your choice. Next I will post the center line and the stinger.
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| | #18 | |
| NBS Member Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Westbrook CT
Posts: 1,269
| Quote:
![]() Again great info here.
__________________ And the sea will grant each man new hope..............Christopher Columbus ![]() 2003 Parker 2530 "DORYMATE".......click the pic 1973 Seacraft 20SF 1970 Glastron V153 70hp Evinrude**FOR SALE** | |
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| | #19 |
![]() Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Maryland
Posts: 431
| I can do that. I was saving that for the end, but as they say, no time like the present ... give me a few min .... ..... ....
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| | #20 |
| NBS Member Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Westbrook CT
Posts: 1,269
| Spee-D-service. No rush, you can save it for the grand finale.
__________________ And the sea will grant each man new hope..............Christopher Columbus ![]() 2003 Parker 2530 "DORYMATE".......click the pic 1973 Seacraft 20SF 1970 Glastron V153 70hp Evinrude**FOR SALE** |
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