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Northeast Let's talk 'bout fishing for local in-shore species


Join in on the "Reef & Rock pile Anchor" discussion here @ NBS Sportfishing. Your input is what makes this place great. Share your experience and information on the No BS Saltwater Fishing Forum / Fishing Community / Fishing Bulletin Board - Fishing Reports, Discussion, Experience and Knowledge Sharing.

What have you got to say about the topic of: "Reef & Rock pile Anchor". Here's how is started: "What are you guys using (style) anchor for anchoring on local reefs & rock piles "

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Old 02-21-2008, 10:01 AM   #1
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Reef & Rock pile Anchor

What are you guys using (style) anchor for anchoring on local reefs & rock piles for a smaller end 23' boat?

I've seen homemade re-bar anchors, I've seen fluke style rigged with zip ties up the shank and the coupling moved to the fluke end of the anchor. Also seen an aluminum grapple style where the aluminum bends if it get hung.

Just wondering what you've found worked best?
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Old 02-21-2008, 12:29 PM   #2
 
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aluminum grapple, try the mighty might

West Marine sells an anchor called the mighty mite, which has 5 prongs, made of aluminum that are niceand bendable. I have 2, one which is 7 seasons old and down to 3 prongs butstill grabs okay, as I broke 2 off getting out of snags. The key is to get the rhode completely vertical under the boat, and then pull straight up. When the prongs straighten, I use a hollow pipe to bend them back into place.

They are filled with sand, so they have good dropping speed with minimal chain. I zip tie the shackle, as it has a tendency to work free with the amount of tugging required sometimes.
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Old 02-21-2008, 01:32 PM   #3
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Capt. Dom Thanks. Does it work OK with the anchor ball to pull it?
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Old 02-21-2008, 01:37 PM   #4
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i've had good luck with the re-bar grappling style, shackled at the back & zip-tied to the front of the shaft. i still use 6' of chain.
this set up is on my boat from october till haul time.
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Old 02-21-2008, 02:42 PM   #5
 
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Originally Posted by AlloyToy View Post
Capt. Dom Thanks. Does it work OK with the anchor ball to pull it?
9/10 the anchor ball will yank it free quickly and with minimal bend...that 1/10th is when it gets buried deep, and I find that getting vertical, then powering off while cleated will do the trick better than the ball....
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Old 02-22-2008, 07:15 AM   #6
 
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I made my anchor pull from the rear . I use wire ties up at the top of it and the chain is attached to the bottom if it hangs up the ties break and the retriveing ball pulls it up backwards . Have'nt lost an anchor yet .

There's a post in the archives here that has a pic . I'll post it here when I find it.
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Old 02-22-2008, 08:27 AM   #7
 
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I use the method Chuck does. Keep a pack of zip ties onboard for when you move around. I've kept the same anchor for 11 years.
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Old 02-22-2008, 08:48 AM   #8
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Thanks guys, Chuck A I'd like to see how many zip ties you use???
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Old 02-22-2008, 12:20 PM   #9
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AlloyToy View Post
Thanks guys, Chuck A I'd like to see how many zip ties you use???
LOL, be careful.....

I pulled up a real nice heavy duty galvanized grappling that got hooked on my own CQR anchor a couple years ago while using my anchor ball....had 15-20 feet of real nice heavy duty galvanized chain, with a little rope still attached. It was rigged with the zip-tie method, etc.....

Problem was it had probably 15-20 ties

Me thinks the previous owner underestimated the strength of Betts zip ties LOLOL

I should take a picture hahahahahahahaha
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Old 02-22-2008, 12:35 PM   #10
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Been using the bottom tie method for anchoring for more than fifty years, it is the only way to go. I usually use about 30 pound test masons line to tie it off at the top eye. So you will understand what I am talking about see the enclosed sketch:

When in normal holding position, there could be several hundred pounds of force on the chain but the 30 pound test line will not break because only a very small force component is on it. However, if it does get snagged, then ride up over it and give a smart yank; you will then be pulling directly on the 30 pound test line and it will snap every time. Then you can pull the anchor up backwards without a problem. I usually tie a half dozen one foot pieces of mason line directly to the anchor's eye just to have them handy when needed. One last comment, once you break the 30 pound line, do not screw around but get your anchor up off the bottom. If you allow it to drag along the bottom backwards it could get wedged in between two rocks. Then only a diver could free it for you.
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