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| Boats, Electronics, Motors, etc... Got questions? Ask Away. Got Information? Please Share. Lot's of knowledge here on these topics |
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07-21-2010, 03:44 PM
| #4 | ||
| Senior NBS Member Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Rhode Island
Posts: 134
| There should be a switch/lever on the side of the pump that will allow you to test the the pump. While you are in there verify that the float switch is working properly.However, the pump will only turn on if it is connected directly to the battery in addition to being on a switch. Depending on what type of on/off switch you have, you may want to try another switch on the panel to verify that it's not a bad switch in the pannel.
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07-21-2010, 07:38 PM
| #5 | ||
 NBS SupporterJoin Date: Jul 2007 Location: Stonington
Posts: 1,541
| Frank, There is nothing complicated about a bilge pump or its wiring. Tell me which model you have, and I will be able to tell you how to test it out. To be sure, putting water in your hull is a sure fire go/no go test. The lever method is also a good test but not every model has such a feature. Some models come with an integral switch so both the pump and switch have to be replaced while others come with a discrete switch so you can replace whichever component (pump or switch) had failed. Another possibility could be your wiring; often a non water tight connection is made thus when powered up and if your leads are under water you will find that your positive lead is no more do to electrolysis. No matter what the cause, we can walk you through it.
__________________ "Success seems to be largely a matter of hanging on after others have let go" by William Feather | ||
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07-22-2010, 10:45 PM
| #6 | ||
| Senior NBS Member Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Durham,ct
Posts: 193
| Scup pump is not working i full hull with water and no water pumped out with Bilge pump turned on and took plug out to drain water, when i open back hatch compartment i see 2 small units on the floor im not sure which is the Pump, one is a Blue rectangular box and the other looks black tough to read name and i tried to follow the wire from the Bilge switch on the console  no luck ill try and take pic and post the pic | ||
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07-23-2010, 02:15 PM
| #7 | ||
| NBS Supporter Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Stonington
Posts: 1,541
| Frank, is the switch on your console a three way switch i.e. "off", "manual", "Automatic"? I do not ever recall seeing a black bilge pump, but there are bilge switches that are black. They rarely fail as they use no moving parts. They sense the difference in the magnetic properties of air versus water. The most difficult thing to get you squared away is to be able to get to the components. Almost all bilge pumps can be popped apart with its lower mounting base still being retained where it has been mounted. Some have ears you have to squeeze, others have be rotated. One thing you can do is remove the top half or your pump (the motor part.) See if it loaded with crap and try to turn the rotor by hand. If the rotor is blocked, clear it out. If the rotor does not turn by hand it will not work. Once the rotor is freed up, try it again. What could have happened is the rotor got blocked, the motor would have drawn more current than it is supposed to, and blew a fuse. If you have no fuse in the circuit, and rotor got blocked, then the pump will have likely burnt itself out and has to be replaced. If nothing still works, then disconnect your pump form where it is and connect it directly to 12 volt battery. If it still does not work toss it out and buy another one. If the pump works, then we will proceed to check out your switch and wiring.
__________________ "Success seems to be largely a matter of hanging on after others have let go" by William Feather | ||
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07-25-2010, 03:05 AM
| #9 | ||
| NBS Supporter Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Stonington
Posts: 1,541
| Damn Frank, they sure do not look like they do in your bilge like when they are sitting on the shelf. The red top item is a Rule pump and the box next to it is a float switch. The black item looks to be a pump as well. Lobster men have been known to purchase maceration pumps to supplement their regular bilge pump. They have stainless steel blades in them and can chop up seaweed and crap without fouling. Not sure if that is the purpose of the second pump in this case since it does not look like any maceration pump I sell. It could be a washdown pump. In any event, I would not even bother trouble shooting, it all looks like hell down there so just replace the rule pump and its switch along with its wiring. Check out what the second black pump is there for. See where its lines run; I suspect it might have been sitting there for years while being non functioning. Since you have room down there, put in a decent sized bilge pump in, say around 1000 gallons per minute. So you do not have to worry about wiring up a float switch, get a pump with an integral switch built within it. This will only set you back $100 or so. Since a 1000 gallon per hour pump will require an 1 1/8 inch hose, you might have to replace some hose as well but a new hose would probably be in order anyway. Do not go cheap on your hose as boats have been sunk at the dock because of faulty bilge pump installations. Unless your wiring looks better to you than me looking at your pictures, replace the wiring as well and make sure somewhere in the line you have a fuse to protect the system. The size of the fuse to use will be suggested in the paperwork that comes with your pump. It also appears that a good bilge cleaning is in order which is a pain to do but very inexpensive. Use waterproof connectors when hooking up your wiring i.e. the connector type that has shrink wrap with a thermal glue inside of it, or use plenty of liquid electrical tape, or even Rescue Tape. Finally, there is no reason to have your connection lying about in bilge water even though you have made waterproof connections, so dress your wiring out high. Still curious as to what the purpose of the second black pump is so get back to me. Did your boat ever have a washdown pump installed? Did it ever work while you owned it or does it still work? If it did but failed, would you want to have its capability restored? Frank there one other thing that has me concerned. You have a lot of plumbing down there in which one might suspect there has been minimal maintenance performed. I would have someone check out your through the hull installations for possible potential breaches that could sink your boat at the dock while you are not present. If you elect not to do this, then make sure you have functioning skin valves, that your through-the-hull fittings are in good shape and do not gamble with old or bargain priced hoses especially if when they fail, they could sink your ride. Should the outlet of your blige pump system ever have the possibility of being under water, then while a check valve might slow down the gallons pumped per hour a tad, it just might save your ride in the event of pump failure.
__________________ "Success seems to be largely a matter of hanging on after others have let go" by William Feather | ||
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07-26-2010, 07:29 PM
| #10 | ||
| Senior NBS Member Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Durham,ct
Posts: 193
| Scup need so more help so i can easily remove these unit Float and Pump but heres the real Problem the wiring is pitiful and brittle so i will have to run New Wire this is a Dumb question does the Pump come with wiring? and if not How do i order wire for this? im worried i wont be able to snake the wire to the console, i dont see were this wire connects to my battery? so this is going to be a project  | ||
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| bilge, pump, question |
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