Bottom Paint

seahunt202 · 12-18-2007, 12:19 PM

I gotta bottom paint my boat this year 'cause it's going in a slip

I'm thinking of doing it myself, but never did this before.
I've got a 20ft. boat that's on a roller trailer.
Anyone got any pointers, tips, good advice?
Thanks in advance!

Bryan A. · 12-18-2007, 02:27 PM

Is there paint on it already??

If not make sure you scuff it up with 220 or so. This will allow the new paint to adhear. Also dewax the gelcoat.

CaptDom · 12-18-2007, 07:45 PM

I paint boats very cheap....

Good startup money every year, most guys don't want to do it themselves, I have 15-20 every spring!

If you want to do it yourself, there are many, many things I would be happy to contribute. Feel free to call me at the number in my signature line...now or when you get close, and I can walk through it with you then.

yeah, you could just scuff it up and slap it on, but there alot of tricks and shortcuts and tasks necessary for perfect paint job.

Bryan A. · 12-19-2007, 11:08 AM

Dom - do you ever use Hydrocoat??
My Parker had it on it so I put it on for the first time last season and I like the stuff so far. Looks clean after a pressure wash this season upon haul out. Have you heard of any problems with it?

Very easy to work with.

seahunt202 · 12-19-2007, 11:46 AM

Thanks Dom, I'll give ya a call.

Rover74 · 12-19-2007, 12:10 PM

Has anyone applied the epoxy barrier coat before applying the bottom paint? Seems like it's more widely used in the South where the boats are in the water for longer periods of time.

Also, what are your feelings on the ablative paints vs. the modified epoxy types? I have traditionally used the modified epoxy paint and have heard that the ablative is easier to apply and requires less prep work.

Zac_S · 12-19-2007, 01:59 PM

yes, i put BC on my boat before first coat of bottom, and what I have read, it is pretty much required if you keep the boat in a slip.

I would also say that I am loving the ablative, much more than previous experience with std. bottom paint.

I would say at a minimum-

wash
acetone wipe
tape
sand
acetone wipe
4 coats of epoxy barrier coat
2 coats of ablative.

It only takes a day...but it is a FULL DAY. You can't let the previous coat fully cure before you start the next.

I would lift the boat off the trailer and onto stands. It is WAY EASIER.

Zac

CaptDom · 12-19-2007, 05:41 PM

Zac has it down, for sure. I do 5 coats of barrier on new hulls, then 3 ablative, or 2 epoxy. The epoxy coats are harder , and therefore better looking on the boat. I have some guys insist I use hard kote( a sailboat paint that is very hard and fast, but crappy at anti fouling) on their waterlines, because no matter if I spray or roll, the ablative is always uglky and seemingly non uniform when dry....

I use ablative almost exclusively now.

Bryan, the hydrocoat is excellent paint, definitelt multi season even on a single coat. I do two coats on boats with bottoms already painted usually, to insure 2-3 seasons with proper sloughing(use, or elbow grease). You will be fine next year as well, as long as you use the boat. Ablative paint is pretty bad at keeping slime and weed off if not allowed to slough off properly. Once the weeds grow over the slime, its gonna require a scrape, which will remove the paint further, shortening is potential effectiveness. Petit is my favorit paint company over the whole line, by far. easy to work with, easy to clean, but be sure to protect your lungs, skin, and eyes from this stuff, it kills watery biological stuff pretty effectively!

If any heavy chipping needs to be done on lots of layers of paint, I recommend they take it all off and start over. A uniform coat is very important, as any irregularities will be prone to heavier growth, slowing you down and costing you money.

The boat will need to be on stands...I have numerous here I would be happy to lend anyone here on NBS willing to come pick them up . Standing the boat can be an adventure in itslef.....

The epoxy barrier is crucial in preserving the fiberglass/gel coat on the hull IMHO. I had to sand down two brand new boats this fall to remove the barnies...they actually got imbedded in the gelcoat, and I sanded to glass in many areas, and then re- gel coated....more money for me, but unnecessary in both instances. They will both have a bit bigger bill in spring to put on 5 coats barrier and 3 top coats, but not by much.... Both boats were put in with no barrier and 1 coat of ablative

, and neither had much paint left anywhere at all in Nov.

Bob & Mag · 12-19-2007, 07:19 PM

Agree with above and add.... use a different color for the 1st coat of ablative then the color you want for the next two coats. When that undercoat(1st coat) color starts showing, it's time to repaint again.

74Formula233 · 12-20-2007, 12:44 PM

If your boat is trailed, don't paint, if you have a virgin hull.

If it's cherry is already popped, then paint with a "hard" paint. I actually had gloss white paint on my Formula bottom. Loved it. Wasn't even a marine product, and was done years before I bought her, and I never touched it.

If you slip, use ablative......you'll never be happier.

I know, simplistic post, but the details are covered well above

12-18-2007, 12:19 PM	#1
seahunt202 NBS Member User Gallery Join Date: May 2007 Location: East Hampton/Mystic,Ct. Posts: 100	Bottom Paint I gotta bottom paint my boat this year 'cause it's going in a slip I'm thinking of doing it myself, but never did this before. I've got a 20ft. boat that's on a roller trailer. Anyone got any pointers, tips, good advice? Thanks in advance!

12-18-2007, 02:27 PM	#2
Bryan A. NBS Member User Gallery Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Westbrook CT Posts: 1,269	Is there paint on it already?? If not make sure you scuff it up with 220 or so. This will allow the new paint to adhear. Also dewax the gelcoat. __________________ And the sea will grant each man new hope..............Christopher Columbus 2003 Parker 2530 "DORYMATE".......click the pic 1973 Seacraft 20SF 1970 Glastron V153 70hp EvinrudeFOR SALE

12-18-2007, 07:45 PM	#3
CaptDom User Gallery Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Blue Planet Posts: 961	I paint boats very cheap.... Good startup money every year, most guys don't want to do it themselves, I have 15-20 every spring! If you want to do it yourself, there are many, many things I would be happy to contribute. Feel free to call me at the number in my signature line...now or when you get close, and I can walk through it with you then. yeah, you could just scuff it up and slap it on, but there alot of tricks and shortcuts and tasks necessary for perfect paint job. __________________ CAPT. DOM PETRARCA COASTAL CHARTERS SPORTFISHING NEWPORT, RI (401)-862-0358 www.coastalcharterssportfishing.com

12-19-2007, 11:08 AM	#4
Bryan A. NBS Member User Gallery Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Westbrook CT Posts: 1,269	Dom - do you ever use Hydrocoat?? My Parker had it on it so I put it on for the first time last season and I like the stuff so far. Looks clean after a pressure wash this season upon haul out. Have you heard of any problems with it? Very easy to work with. __________________ And the sea will grant each man new hope..............Christopher Columbus 2003 Parker 2530 "DORYMATE".......click the pic 1973 Seacraft 20SF 1970 Glastron V153 70hp EvinrudeFOR SALE

12-19-2007, 12:10 PM	#6
Rover74 NBS Member User Gallery Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Rhode Island Posts: 75	Has anyone applied the epoxy barrier coat before applying the bottom paint? Seems like it's more widely used in the South where the boats are in the water for longer periods of time. Also, what are your feelings on the ablative paints vs. the modified epoxy types? I have traditionally used the modified epoxy paint and have heard that the ablative is easier to apply and requires less prep work. __________________

12-19-2007, 11:46 AM	#5
seahunt202 NBS Member User Gallery Join Date: May 2007 Location: East Hampton/Mystic,Ct. Posts: 100	Thanks Dom, I'll give ya a call.

12-19-2007, 01:59 PM	#7
Zac_S NBS Member User Gallery Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: RI Posts: 117	yes, i put BC on my boat before first coat of bottom, and what I have read, it is pretty much required if you keep the boat in a slip. I would also say that I am loving the ablative, much more than previous experience with std. bottom paint. I would say at a minimum- wash acetone wipe tape sand acetone wipe 4 coats of epoxy barrier coat 2 coats of ablative. It only takes a day...but it is a FULL DAY. You can't let the previous coat fully cure before you start the next. I would lift the boat off the trailer and onto stands. It is WAY EASIER. Zac __________________ bound to cover just a little more ground

12-19-2007, 05:41 PM	#8
CaptDom User Gallery Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Blue Planet Posts: 961	Zac has it down, for sure. I do 5 coats of barrier on new hulls, then 3 ablative, or 2 epoxy. The epoxy coats are harder , and therefore better looking on the boat. I have some guys insist I use hard kote( a sailboat paint that is very hard and fast, but crappy at anti fouling) on their waterlines, because no matter if I spray or roll, the ablative is always uglky and seemingly non uniform when dry.... I use ablative almost exclusively now. Bryan, the hydrocoat is excellent paint, definitelt multi season even on a single coat. I do two coats on boats with bottoms already painted usually, to insure 2-3 seasons with proper sloughing(use, or elbow grease). You will be fine next year as well, as long as you use the boat. Ablative paint is pretty bad at keeping slime and weed off if not allowed to slough off properly. Once the weeds grow over the slime, its gonna require a scrape, which will remove the paint further, shortening is potential effectiveness. Petit is my favorit paint company over the whole line, by far. easy to work with, easy to clean, but be sure to protect your lungs, skin, and eyes from this stuff, it kills watery biological stuff pretty effectively! If any heavy chipping needs to be done on lots of layers of paint, I recommend they take it all off and start over. A uniform coat is very important, as any irregularities will be prone to heavier growth, slowing you down and costing you money. The boat will need to be on stands...I have numerous here I would be happy to lend anyone here on NBS willing to come pick them up . Standing the boat can be an adventure in itslef..... The epoxy barrier is crucial in preserving the fiberglass/gel coat on the hull IMHO. I had to sand down two brand new boats this fall to remove the barnies...they actually got imbedded in the gelcoat, and I sanded to glass in many areas, and then re- gel coated....more money for me, but unnecessary in both instances. They will both have a bit bigger bill in spring to put on 5 coats barrier and 3 top coats, but not by much.... Both boats were put in with no barrier and 1 coat of ablative, and neither had much paint left anywhere at all in Nov. __________________ CAPT. DOM PETRARCA COASTAL CHARTERS SPORTFISHING NEWPORT, RI (401)-862-0358 www.coastalcharterssportfishing.com

12-19-2007, 07:19 PM	#9
Bob & Mag User Gallery Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Clinton, CT Posts: 2,654	Agree with above and add.... use a different color for the 1st coat of ablative then the color you want for the next two coats. When that undercoat(1st coat) color starts showing, it's time to repaint again. __________________ Smoke free 15 Weeks!

12-20-2007, 12:44 PM	#10
74Formula233 User Gallery Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Exeter, Rhode Island Posts: 3,291	If your boat is trailed, don't paint, if you have a virgin hull. If it's cherry is already popped, then paint with a "hard" paint. I actually had gloss white paint on my Formula bottom. Loved it. Wasn't even a marine product, and was done years before I bought her, and I never touched it. If you slip, use ablative......you'll never be happier. I know, simplistic post, but the details are covered well above __________________

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