Bryan A.

It sounds like there is gunk in the carbs which is very possible if you ran it off an aux. tank and the problem still persists.

There should be one carb per cylinder (If infact the engine is carburated)
The bottom of each one should have a bowl on it with a large flat screw on the front. If you remove that you can drain what ever is sitting in the bowls. Pump the ball with some fresh gas and you should get it to squirt out. If that doesn't work you may need to dig alittle deeper and remove the needle valves or the entire carb for cleaning. If that doesn't work then move on to the fuel pump. Ethanol is a bitch!!

The picture below is not of outboard carbs but the circled screws should be similar to what you have. I am not familiar with your specific motor, you may want to buy a manual. Good luck and feel free to ask questions, you have the entire winter to fix it.

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2003 Parker 2530 "El Mar".......click the pic
1973 Seacraft 20SF

frank5465

im gonna try this i cant tell you how MUCH i appreciate all the HELP i have gotten from this Site, i by NOW would have paid hundreds may be thousands to get to this Point thank you again and ill post when i have tried , i also closed our POOL today and winterized our Camper also so im Beat

frank5465

ok youre pic helped i did get 3 of the 4 screws the 4th i could not REACH and needless to say the screws fell into the Motor and my Magnetic grabber did NOT work this was a NITEMARE and getting the screw back in was even a bigger nitemare until i put some duct tape in ratchet so it wouldn't fall out, i did spray carb cleaner in there and the ONE thing i didn't do is PUMP the Ball, but when i started it the same problem persists what start and if i had choke would run for 10 seconds then when id throttle up carb doors would open only to stall, and stall and stall somemore, i really have issues and i hope it is the Fuel pump ot i have wasted a LOT of my Time and Money

Bryan A.

Did any fuel come out of the drains? What did it look like?

Pumping the ball would have cleared anything that was in the bowls, that is the main reason for draining them. That is an area where fuel sits while it is waiting to enter into the venturi of the carb.

The screws are usually brass, that is why the magnet did not work.

You can try turning the motor over with the carb drains out and see if fuel gets up there. On my old Ocean Pro I was able to diagnose the fuel pump by watching the drains, the top two on a 6 cylinder motor were not getting any fuel. All four cylinders on yours should get fuel while it is turning over. It sounds like you are on the right track, I would hate to see you put on a new pump if all it needs is a good carb clean though.

What kind of motor is this anyway???

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2003 Parker 2530 "El Mar".......click the pic
1973 Seacraft 20SF

frank5465

its a 1998 Mercury 115HP and i will attempt to take these off again like i said all but the last screw i was able to remove and as for pumping the Bulb i wish i knew how important this was , and i would've tried to start it with those screws off but i thought this was not possible so i didn't try it any tips on removing the screws and keeping them from falling into motor, i forgot to add that i had to get Oil Supply tank off as the screw fell into Motor and this was the ONLY way to get at screw and i also forgot to add the the hose popped off and Oil was shooting out!!!!, ahhhhhhhhhhhh the nitemare relived i was able to get a temp tie but i bought some more and will bit another on for Peace of Mind

Bryan A.

If you tilt the motor up it would probably fall on the deck.

Is there a plate in front of the carbs? that should come off with a few screws, making access easier.

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2003 Parker 2530 "El Mar".......click the pic
1973 Seacraft 20SF

Bryan A.

These are yammi carbs but the plate is removed for acess to the front of the carbs.

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2003 Parker 2530 "El Mar".......click the pic
1973 Seacraft 20SF

frank5465

i did not remove plate as i thought this had a gasket on it and the Plastic shield that covers the Carbs has a small gasket on the bottom that came off and i was able to get it back on but doesnt appear like its snug so when i takethis back off ill probably replace it ,the Metal piece covering the Carbs i thought this was another No No by the Regular Joes, so my Next nice day as it Freaking Raining and cold today ill try and get at this, ill trying tipping the Motor also and taking off the Metal plate will allow easier access to bottom screw, can i start Motor with the Metal Plate off? and what should i worry about when this is open?

Bryan A.

You should be able to start it with the plate off but as I said before I am not familiar with your engine. Hard to advise on-line. I'm just going off what I would do and am in noway a professional.

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2003 Parker 2530 "El Mar".......click the pic
1973 Seacraft 20SF

old mud

Sounds good so far, the only thing i could add is Not technical. I would place a towel under the carbs to cover the holes and crevises. Also would place a layer of Duct tape (Stickey side up) on the towel. Anything dropped will STICK where it drops. Saves your Back tipping the motor over. Carry on !!

Don

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"I was so poor growing up that if I wasn't a BOY I'd have had nothing to play with"
Piker Ancient Mariner