JackC

My hats off to all of you. Once the boat gets home, I will let you know what method I use. I have mounted about 10 transducers and never really agonized over it. (Followed directions in the manual.) I'm taking my time with this boat and doing everything nice and slow. (Get it right the first time.)

Since this boat has a solid stern (no wood) - I'm not overly worried but do not want water intrusion.

Question on Atlantic and bottom paint - I'll bring the water line issue up with them.

By the way - I never paint my transducers and I have had no problems (Garmin and Lowrance). I'm leaning toward a Garmin combo unit but like Lowrance FF performance. I love Garmin service - I had a unit die after warranty, I sent it back at a flat repair rate of $175 - I got a new unit with all my waypoints loaded in it. I've found Lowrance service to not be as good.

I'll be making another post on rod holder installation.

Thanks Jack

Bryan A.

Scup - do it like this........



Jack - is the 20D the one with the little Pilot House?

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2003 Parker 2530 "El Mar".......click the pic
1973 Seacraft 20SF

Bob & Mag

Bryan, That's what I was talking about. You can use the dovetail bit (because the bonding agent will fill the gap and virtually be a mechanical fastener). Either Cut a couple vertical and horizontal lines or do a plunge cut near the center and make a circle. That should be sufficient but I'd still mount direct to transom because I'm a chicken and don't want to take a chance of it flying around after coming loose.

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Smoke free 8+ Months!

Bryan A.

Bob - D you think the hole caused by the plunge cut would interfere. I'm thinking to do this and make it look good you would not want the dovetails showing off the side.


Jack - I don't think the stern is solid, it is still cored just with some material other than wood. Their website says "fiberglass coring material". It won't rot but it can still freeze and crack if water gets in.

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2003 Parker 2530 "El Mar".......click the pic
1973 Seacraft 20SF

Scup

I can comment about painting transducers since that is right up my alley; I evaluated sonar systems for the navy. When I worked for a retail marine store that was a competitor to West Marine I was told to sell the transducer paint with the pitch "the paint is acoustically transparent". I never could say that as it is total bunk. The real reason is that the xducer's active crystal is embedded or potted if you like, in a polyurethane composite. The exact formula of these composites can be quite varied as the manufacturer chooses. Bottom paints have solvents in them to suspend the anti fouling copper compounds. Some of these solvents will attack some of the potting composites. The industry gave up on trying to figure out which solvent will attack which potting compound so they recommend the safe approach of using a water based bottom paint. This is what xducer paint is. It simply will not react with your xducer's construction no matter what they used to assemble it with. Since ultra violet rays can breakdown the composite compound over time (not an issue when it is submerged in water) should your ride be winter stored where the sunshine can hit it your xducer directly, you will extend its life if you cover it with something (i.e. a rag, tape, Styrofoam cup, just about anything will work.)

AlloyToy

JackC be sure they follow the steps provided from the paint manufacturer when painting your boat. A lot of dealer have "grunts" do it, charge a lot, and do a S_itty job!!! Had this experience myself and ended up doing it over. I believe they "dewaxed" but never sanded........

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"First The Bite Then The Fight"

Bob & Mag

Glad you mentioned painting the transducer. We let it slip right by. I use that "MDR" I believe it's called. A little bottle of water-based transducer paint with the brush in the tip.
It helps but you'll still get growth on it if you don't brush it occassionally. More that brown scum you get at the water line than anything else. It does help against barnacles etc though.

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Smoke free 8+ Months!

JackC

You all have a wealth of information. Fast responses - Dave at Atlantic (don't know his last name) - used to work at Palmer Cover we are kind of friendly and chatting about bottom paint - bottom line is that they dewax, sand, barrier coat and put 2 coats of ablative paint.

As for the MDR paint - I used to use it, since I'm up at Riverside, the growth is pretty low. I've been there for 14 years (no paint on any of my transducers).

Maritime stern - interesting, I will check the website out - bottom line is that I don't want any water intrusion.

Thanks - Jack

Scup

As a final note concerning the ingenious methods some of our form members came up with for getting starboard material (high density polyethylene) attached to transoms without mechanical fasteners, I called the technical department of the Cutting Board Factory. They suggested two products by 3M that will provide a strong bond to their product. One is a spray called High Strength 90, and the other is DP-8005 which comes in a tube. He suggested that DP-8005 while available it is not that common. However, suppliers like McMasters and Carr do carry it. Have no idea how appropriate they are for underwater use as I have never even heard of these products until today. Will talk with the 3M rep today when I go into work.

Scup

The 3M rep stated the spray is not suited for underwater use, no surprise. The DP-8005 is rated for underwater use. It is a two part acrylic epoxy and will stick to starboard and fiberglass. In addition, when I went into work, I saw on the shelf a two part product made by Marine Tex called Poly-Dura kit. It too will bond with starboard. You can go to the following website:
Thank you for visiting the Marine-Tex website.* Click on one of the links to the left to begin your search. for further information. However, the cost of either of these products is far more than the cost of the small section of starboard you will be using. It would appear that the methods put forth by the members of this form are likely the only practical way to go about it unless money is no object.