74Formula233

Yes....I have my lead on 113's (not H's, standard ratio "black plates").......

I guessed my backing and they both came out right on the money. I used 50# Ande Pink (our old commercial standby mono, Ande Pink) with a SPRO bullet swivel inbetween to mate 'em.

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AlloyToy

Dumb question 74 but how much backing did you put on, and did you fit a whole spoll of leadcore?? 45#??

Thanks,

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74Formula233

I fit the whole 10 colors, no prob....if I had to GUESS, I was between 1/3 to 1/2 full of backing with the mono before tying on the lead......but pleASE DONT HOLD ME TO IT! (sorry for caps)......I'm better "by eye" than "by describing" LOL

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ReelCrazySportfishing

I run 80 yards of 80 pound dacron and fit all 10 colors of lead core
on my penn 113h

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AlloyToy

Thank you guys

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demonfish

I havent trolled lead or wire since I was a kid. We used mostly lead. Anyway lets talk knots, which hold better?

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Scup

I use lead core as well for chunking while at anchor at Latimer's Reef. The current can really pick up there as the reef is only about ten feet deep while the bottom drops aways very quickly to fifty feet on both sides of the reef. Good question about knots as I have not figure that one out myself. I originally tried 27 pound test, and my first bass popped that easily. Replaced it 36 pound test and about the third bass hookup popped that as well. Now, I will not use anything less than 45 pound test line. It really becomes a tug of war if the tide is running 3 MPH and you hook up with a big fish. Even if you tied a dead bass on to your rig, you still have to pull the fish in against the current. Nothing seems to work here except brute force. Since Latimers is loaded with lobster pots, again, brute force is sometimes required to keep your fish out of trouble. I tried both mono and dacron (with various in-line weights) and could never get my chunks down to the right depth. Not sure if I was too high or too low. It seems to be a balancing act, and lead core line is the easiest to use successfully under changing current conditions.
Wire line, without a doubt, sinks the fastest, but it is just easier to fish with lead core. For trolling, I watch the charter boats go by me as I am chunking and they pound the bass/blues very well with wire line. I liked monel wire over stainless steel wire, but have given up on using either. There is just something that bothers me when I use wire, even though it does work very well. Be careful of your rod guides that you use with wire, as it can really louse up inferior guides very quickly. Most manufactures make a line of rods just for wire line trolling.
I use an old Penn 49 for my lead core line. Not sure why you would need backing as lead core line is supple enough and one can get two spools connected. If I have to put backing on, which would be the case if I only used a single spool of wire core, I use the idiot method. I would wind the lead core line on first, followed by the backing until things look right. Of course, everything is now ass backwards, so you have unwind it two more times on to spare reels before you could finally reel in back on to your original reel. Still, since you are only talking about 200 yards at most, so it is not too much trouble. The only other thing I can add to the previous comments, I always use a long fluorocarbon leader between my chunk and lead core with stainless spro 140 test swivel just in case things do get out of hand and my bait starts to spin (very bad to have a spinning chunk as you must bring it back in and fix or replace it so it does not spin.)
While I am not completely sure why, it seems that the longevity of lead core line is not as robust as other lines. I could break my two year old 45 pound test line with about a 30 pound pull. I would wrap it around a tree, so there would be no knots to contend with, and with gloved hand give it a pull. It must have something to do with the lead oxide attacking the inside of the outer braided covering. In any event, two years seems to be about the longest one should trust lead core before replacing it.

marcus220

the only downfall to leadcore is corroson on an aluminum spool.if that line is not rinsed properly it will corrode bigtime.i'reccomend using a graphite spool.

Scup

I sort of agree with Pat's post. The difference here at south eastern Connecticut is the rip can really be ripping. I like to fish at Latimers reef, but the currents can really whip along, especially during moon tides. I would doubt that my lead core line ever touches bottom but it does get the chunk down to where it produces. I find it far easier to control my depth with lead core line than with mono and a sinker. Pat is right on with 45 pound test. I tried 27 lb test (bass had a field day with popping that) and 36 pound test would average out about one bass landed for every bass that broke the line. Even a large dead bass, in a 3 MPH current plus, can pop 36 pound test line. There is also something screwy with lead core line in that it seems to get weaker with use and time. I would not try to push my luck by using old lead core line. Latimers Reef is usually loaded lobster pots, so you really do not want to give a bass a free hand in running you around a lobster pot rode. Again, stay away from the lighter lead core lines. I do put a stainless spro swivel in my setup as it is hard to bait up a line in a 3MPH current and not have it spin. A spinning bait is bad news, but it can drive one nuts to correct a bait that just refuses to behave. Unlike Pat, I use an OShaughnessy hook; a cheap, but sturdy and well tested hook over the years. I only fish one rod, and that rod is always in my hands, not a rod holder. I like to thumb my reel with the reel in free spool. It is a great feeling when you feel a bass messing with your bait. Another advantage of lead core line is it is not hard on your guides. Wire line is a guide killer if you do not have guides specifically designed for wire line use. Lastly, I have seen fishermen catch bass with their fishing rod in a holder. This technique is very effective, however, I just do not care for it.

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