74Formula233

Leadcore works well while anchored chunking. When drifting I still often use braid with a fishfinder. But while anchored, the lead with no sinker (as George mentioned) presents the bait more naturally

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AlloyToy

Do any of you guys use lead core for Tube-n-Worm fishing??? I've heard it works well compared to wire. I'm thinking about trying it this season.

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"First The Bite Then The Fight"

ReelCrazySportfishing

i have used it with tube and worm. very good results and none of the bs involved with wire.

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AlloyToy

ReelCrazy, Same 45# for tube & worm?

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ReelCrazySportfishing

Yes I use 45# for everything. The weight of the lead in the line is the same no matter what pound test it is.

it holds up well to being dragged along the bottom and some of the places I chunk with it has oyster beds on the bottom and it holds up well to that also.

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Zac_S

Great posts RCS!

To address the original question from GP-TJ, if it is your ONLY conventional, I would not load it with leadcore, i would put braid on it.

That being said, I do find leadcore useful, and I have two reels loaded with it.

This is what I tell my wife when she asks why I need so many rods &/or reels. I tell her that reels are like golf clubs.... You need diferent ones for diferent situations. you can't bring a putter to the tee box, and you don't bring a 3 wood into the sandtrap.

In my opinion, a minimally outfitted boater fishing in/nearshore [read: striper/blues/fluke/tog] would own at least 6 conventionals and 6 spinning rigs.

conventional
2 troll/drift big 30s
2 troll/drift/bottom small 20s
2 fluke/tog smaller 15s

2 med/large spin
2 med spin
2 light spin

And this is what I would consider MINIMUM! I guess this is why she calls me excessive...

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GP-TJ

I do have 2 conventional with me on the boat. Both have braid on them now.

Iusually carry 2 spinning with me all the time too. One is setup pretty light and the other heavier. Both with mono. I use the light one for storm shads, etc. and the heavy is used for snagging, poppers, playing with bluefish.

I guess I need more rods. Whoever goes fishing with me usually brings a few spinners too. Good thing I have a nice t-top with rocket launcher and 4 more added to my leaning post, 4 in the gunnel, and 6 horizontal under the gunnel and 6 more in front of the console. I need to fill them up.

74Formula233

I use Lead ONLY for tube and worm. I also use the 45# Cortland. Some like the 36#, and say it sinks faster (less braid material, less trapped air, less diameter), some use the 60# (I think it's excessive)....I prefer the 45# for it's long-term durability. I usually have to use no more than 3 to 5 colors where I T&W.

George, never hurts to have several different setups

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AlloyToy

74formula,

3-5 color......what fishing depth is that? What is the length of each color or the total length at 5 colors say???? It sounds like it sinks quicker than wire.

So if I'm picturing this correct you have lead core to a leader to the T&W?

Swivels, no swivels??? Excuse my ignorance.......never fished the stuff in my life.

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74Formula233

I only use lead typically for depths UP TO 30'. Most of my T&W is done in shallow to mid-20's, and will vary during the troll (obviously, fishing structure).

Lead tracks beautifully in turns, avoiding tangles, and is simply nice to work with, even running 2 rods while fishing yourself. Each color is 10 yards. I fill a reel with a full roll of 10 colors. This way when the top color gets beat, I simply strip it off (whole or partially), and still have 9 colors left....etc etc....until I get down low enough to justify respooling. But I find the 45# Cortland holds up very well.

I wouldn't say it sinks quicker than wire, but remember with T&W trolling you want to go as SLOW as possible, so it sinks quickly anyway in this case. With wire (I only use wire for parachutes and umbrellas) I am trolling faster, and typically deeper. The small diameter of the wire gets down to the deeper depths very well.

I don't follow any of the charts people typically post for length of line vs. depth, etc.....there are so many variables (current, speed, weight of tube or other trolling gear, etc etc etc) that you really need to use "trial and error" for a couple passes, letting it bump bottom, then reeling in a bit, and taking note. And it may vary each troll, each direction etc. So, as you can see, there really is no such thing as a "rule of thumb" here.

I am constantly making adjustments. If you're banging bottom, you're likely picking up weed, if you're too high in the column, you're likely to be now targeting blues and smaller bass LOL.

You want to be right in the zone just off the bottom for those lazy fat slobs And sometimes you need to pull it right in front of their mouth (and smack 'em in the head if you can LOL) for them to take it

I tie my lead to a SPRO bullet swivel, then 6'-10' of 30# leader (mono is fine, remember you're dragging a long tube, the supposed invisibility of fluoro vs. mono isn't really a factor here LOL).

The tubes I make have a swivel incorporated in the front, so that takes care of a swivel at the business end.

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